The Yanapaccha climb is a technical 2-day, 1-night program from Huaraz to a summit of 5,497 m (18,040 ft) according to our program, in the Llanganuco area of Huascarán National Park. On day 1 we hike 3 to 4 hours to the moraine camp (4,800 m); on day 2 we start between 3:00 and 4:00 a.m. and climb the direct route, with an ice wall of about 150 m, then descend by rappel. It is for climbers with ice experience who arrive already acclimatized.
- Duration
- 2 days / 1 night
- Max. altitude
- 5,497 m
- Difficulty
- Very challenging
- Departs from
- Huaraz, 8:00 a.m. (private bus)
- Price
- Ask for price
Huascarán National Park rules for Yanapaccha
Yanapaccha is in the Llanganuco area of Huascarán National Park. For a 2-day program you buy the 2 to 3-day park ticket: S/ 60 at the general rate for foreign visitors (SERNANP, 2026).
- Ice climbing must be done through a tourism service provider and with an official, licensed guide, meaning someone with a mountain guide title from an officially recognized higher-education institution (Jefatural Resolution 196-2006-INRENA, art. 7.1 and 24 b).
- On difficult ascents like this one, a guide may climb with no more than 2 people at a time (art. 25).
- You must register at the control post and carry all your trash out.
Highlights
- A direct route with an ice wall of about 150 m and a rappel descent.
- A 5,497 m summit (according to our program) with views of the highest peaks of the range.
- A short program: 2 days, with one night at the moraine camp at 4,800 m.
- A good next step after a first peak such as Pisco or Vallunaraju, if you want to move on to ice.
Itinerary
- Day 1Huaraz – Llanganuco – moraine camp
We leave at 8:00 a.m. by private bus, drive north to Yungay and enter the Llanganuco valley, at about 3,900 m. From there we hike 3 to 4 hours to the moraine camp, at 4,800 m.
- Day 2Yanapaccha summit and return to Huaraz
We start between 3:00 and 4:00 a.m. and climb 2 to 3 hours to the glacier. We climb the direct route, with an ice wall of about 150 m, and reach the summit (5,497 m) in 3 to 4 hours, with views of the highest peaks of the range. We rappel down, return to the moraine camp and then to Huaraz.
Schedule from the agency's program. Times depend on the rope team's pace, the weather and ice conditions; the guide may change the start time or turn the group around for safety.
What's included and not included
What's included
- Private bus Huaraz – Llanganuco – Huaraz
- Mountain guide
Not included
- Huascarán National Park ticket for 2 to 3 days (SERNANP, 2026): S/ 60 at the general rate
- Travel insurance: we recommend one that covers mountain rescue and evacuation
What to bring
- Stiff, crampon-compatible mountaineering boots
- Crampons, two technical ice tools, harness, helmet and belay gear (ask which ones the agency provides)
- Sleeping bag rated below freezing
- Layers: thermal base layer, fleece, down jacket, and waterproof jacket and pants
- Warm hat, thick gloves plus thin climbing gloves, buff and glacier sunglasses
- Headlamp with spare batteries: we start between 3:00 and 4:00 a.m.
- Sunscreen and lip balm
- Bottles or a thermos for 2 liters of water, and snacks
- Passport for the control post
More information
A technical climb: the ice wall and the rappel
Yanapaccha is not a beginner peak. After 2 to 3 hours up to the glacier, the direct route climbs an ice wall of about 150 m, using crampons, technical ice tools and a belayed rope. It takes 3 to 4 hours from the glacier to the summit, and you come down the wall by rappel.
The program is also short: on the first night you already sleep at 4,800 m. That is why you need to arrive well acclimatized, ideally after another peak, such as Pisco, or several high-altitude hikes.
| Day | Section | Altitude | Schedule or time |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Huaraz → Yungay → Llanganuco valley (private bus) | up to about 3,900 m | 8:00 a.m. departure |
| 1 | Llanganuco → moraine camp (on foot) | 3,900 m to 4,800 m | 3 to 4 h |
| 2 | Camp → glacier | from 4,800 m | 3:00 to 4:00 a.m. start; 2 to 3 h |
| 2 | Glacier → ice wall → summit; rappel descent | up to 5,497 m | 3 to 4 h to the summit |
| 2 | Summit → moraine camp → Huaraz | down to about 3,050 m | back the same day |
Schedules, camp altitudes and wall length: the agency's program.
Requirements: acclimatization, experience and gear
- Acclimatization: arrive in Huaraz at least 4 or 5 days before and do high-altitude hikes, such as Laguna Churup (4,450 m) or Laguna 69 (about 4,600 m), or an entry-level peak. The CDC recommends that, above 2,750 m (9,000 ft), you raise your sleeping altitude by no more than about 500 m (1,600 ft) per day. See our Huaraz acclimatization guide.
- Experience: previous glacier and ice climbing experience with crampons and ice tools, and you must know how to rappel. If you have never climbed ice, start with an entry-level peak.
- Technical gear: stiff mountaineering boots, crampons, two technical ice tools, harness, helmet and belay gear, plus warm layers and a sleeping bag rated below freezing. Which gear the agency provides and what you can rent in Huaraz is confirmed when you book.
- Health: if you have high blood pressure or heart rhythm problems, travel with your medication and a recent medical check-up, and do not take acetazolamide without a prescription (Peru's Ministry of Health).
Best time to climb Yanapaccha
SERNANP recommends visiting the park from May to October, in the dry season. From October to April it rains and snows up high, and conditions on the ice wall change with every snowfall.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need experience to climb Yanapaccha?
Yes. It is a technical climb: there is an ice wall of about 150 m and the descent is by rappel. You need previous glacier and ice climbing experience. If this would be your first peak, start with Pisco or Vallunaraju.
How many days should I acclimatize first?
Since the program lasts only 2 days and you sleep at 4,800 m on the first night, we recommend at least 4 or 5 days in Huaraz with high-altitude hikes or an entry-level peak first. See our acclimatization guide.
What gear do I need?
Stiff mountaineering boots, crampons, two technical ice tools, harness, helmet, belay gear, warm layers and a sleeping bag rated below freezing. When you book we confirm which gear the agency provides and what you can rent in Huaraz.
When is the best time to climb Yanapaccha?
The dry season: SERNANP recommends visiting the park from May to October. From October to April it rains, it snows up high and ice conditions change.
How many climbers per guide?
Huascarán National Park rules say that on difficult ascents a guide may climb with no more than 2 people at a time (Jefatural Resolution 196-2006-INRENA, art. 25). We confirm the ratio for your group when you book.
Can it be done in one day?
Our program takes 2 days: on day 1 you hike to the moraine camp (4,800 m), and on day 2 you climb to the summit and return to Huaraz.
