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Angeles Expediciones

Climbing Nevado Huarapasca (5,414 m) via the southeast face

Huaraz – Pachacoto – Pumapampa valley – Huayacu valley – Nevado Huarapasca – Huaraz

  • 3 days / 2 nights
  • 5,414 m
  • Challenging

The Nevado Huarapasca climb is a 3-day, 2-night program from Huaraz to a summit of 5,414 m (17,760 ft) according to our program, in the southern Cordillera Blanca. We drive by private bus via Pachacoto and the Pumapampa valley to the Huayacu valley, where base camp is. On day 2 we start at 4:00 a.m. and climb for about 7 hours up the southeast face to the summit. It is a glacier climb that requires prior acclimatization, good fitness and technical gear.

Duration
3 days / 2 nights
Max. altitude
5,414 m
Difficulty
Challenging
Departs from
Huaraz, in the morning (private bus)
Price
Ask for price

Huascarán National Park rules for Huarapasca

Access is by the Pumapampa valley road, in the Pastoruri area of Huascarán National Park. For a 3-day program you buy the 2 to 3-day park ticket: S/ 60 at the general rate for foreign visitors (SERNANP, 2026).

  • Climbing must be done through a tourism service provider and with an official, licensed guide, meaning someone with a mountain guide title from an officially recognized higher-education institution (Jefatural Resolution 196-2006-INRENA, art. 7.1 and 24 b).
  • On difficult ascents, a guide may climb with no more than 2 people at a time (art. 25).
  • You must register at the control post and carry all your trash out.

Highlights

  • A 5,414 m summit (according to our program) via the southeast face, about 7 hours of climbing.
  • Base camp in the Huayacu valley, in the southern part of the range, away from the busy Llanganuco routes.
  • Road access from Huaraz through the Pumapampa valley, the same road that leads to the Puya raimondii plants and Pastoruri.
  • A 3-day program: on day 3 we leave camp at 9:00 a.m. and drive back to Huaraz by private bus.

Itinerary

  1. Day 1Huaraz – Huayacu valley – base camp

    We drive south by private bus to Pachacoto, head up the Pumapampa valley and then into the Huayacu valley to base camp.

  2. Day 2Huarapasca summit via the southeast face

    We start at 4:00 a.m. and climb for about 7 hours up the southeast face to the summit (5,414 m). Then we return to base camp.

  3. Day 3Base camp – Huaraz

    At 9:00 a.m. we leave camp and drive back to Huaraz by private bus.

Schedule from the agency's program. Walking times depend on the group's pace, the weather and glacier conditions; the guide may change the summit start time or turn the group around for safety.

What's included and not included

What's included

  • Private bus Huaraz – Huayacu valley – Huaraz
  • Mountain guide

Not included

  • Huascarán National Park ticket for 2 to 3 days (SERNANP, 2026): S/ 60 at the general rate
  • Travel insurance: we recommend one that covers mountain rescue and evacuation

What to bring

  • Crampon-compatible mountaineering boots
  • Crampons, ice axe, harness and helmet (ask which ones the agency provides)
  • Sleeping bag rated below freezing
  • Layers: thermal base layer, fleece, down jacket, and waterproof jacket and pants
  • Warm hat, thick gloves, buff and glacier sunglasses
  • Headlamp with spare batteries: the summit push starts at 4:00 a.m.
  • Sunscreen and lip balm
  • Bottles or a thermos for 2 liters of water, and food for a long summit day
  • Passport for the control post
Technical climbing gear: mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness, rope, down jacket and gloves
Reference image. Technical climbing gear: mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness, rope, down jacket and gloves

More information

How hard is Huarapasca?

The challenge comes from the altitude and the length of summit day: about 7 hours up the southeast face, plus the descent to camp, on a glacier with crampons, an ice axe and a rope. The exact technical level depends on glacier conditions each season; tell us about your experience when you book and we will let you know if this is the right peak for you.

The Nevado Huarapasca program, day by day
DaySectionAltitudeSchedule or time
1Huaraz → Pachacoto → Pumapampa valley → Huayacu valley (private bus) and base camp—morning departure
2Base camp → summit via the southeast face → base campup to 5,414 m4:00 a.m. start; about 7 h up
3Base camp → Huaraz (private bus)down to about 3,050 m9:00 a.m. departure

Schedules from the agency's program. The altitude of Huarapasca is the one in our program: there is no official published figure.

Requirements: acclimatization, experience and gear

  • Acclimatization: arrive in Huaraz at least 3 or 4 days before and do a couple of day hikes, such as Laguna Churup (4,450 m). The CDC recommends that, above 2,750 m (9,000 ft), you raise your sleeping altitude by no more than about 500 m (1,600 ft) per day. See our Huaraz acclimatization guide.
  • Experience: good fitness and experience on long days at altitude: summit day means more than 7 hours on the move. If you have never used crampons or an ice axe, tell us when you book; you may be better off starting with Vallunaraju.
  • Technical gear: crampon-compatible mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness and helmet, plus warm layers and a sleeping bag rated below freezing. Which gear the agency provides and what you can rent in Huaraz is confirmed when you book.
  • Health: if you have high blood pressure or heart rhythm problems, travel with your medication and a recent medical check-up, and do not take acetazolamide without a prescription (Peru's Ministry of Health).

Best time to climb Huarapasca

SERNANP recommends visiting the park from May to October, in the dry season. From October to April it rains and it snows up high, which makes summit day longer and slower.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need experience to climb Huarapasca?

You need good fitness, experience on long days at altitude and proper acclimatization. Summit day is about 7 hours of climbing on a glacier. If you have never used crampons or an ice axe, tell us when you book.

Which route do you take on Huarapasca?

The southeast face, from a base camp in the Huayacu valley, which we reach by bus via Pachacoto and the Pumapampa valley. According to our program, the climb to the summit takes about 7 hours.

How many days should I acclimatize first?

We recommend at least 3 or 4 days in Huaraz with a couple of day hikes, such as Laguna Churup. See our acclimatization guide.

What gear do I need?

Crampon-compatible mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, warm layers and a sleeping bag rated below freezing. When you book we confirm which gear the agency provides and what you can rent in Huaraz.

When is the best time to climb Huarapasca?

The dry season: SERNANP recommends visiting the park from May to October. From October to April it rains, and it snows up high.

How many climbers per guide?

Huascarán National Park rules say that on difficult ascents a guide may climb with no more than 2 people at a time (Jefatural Resolution 196-2006-INRENA, art. 25). We confirm the ratio for your group when you book.

Before you go

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